4 forgotten grape varieties that are well worth discovering
If you hear the words 'squash' or 'Jerusalem artichokes', one adjective should come to mind: forgotten. And can you believe it that not only are there forgotten vegetables, there are also forgotten grape varieties that in days of old were an integral part of the French wine growing landscape, but that nowadays are tending to disappear.
What are they and where do they come from? Here is the history of 4 of them.
1) Loin de l'œil (out of sight)...but close to your heart
"Loin de l'oeil"... not an ordinary name for a grape variety! Originating from the Gaillac vineyard, Loin de l'œil is a white grape variety with medium-sized bunches and very long stems. This characteristic gives it its unusual name, with 'l'oeil' (the eye) referring to its berries located a long way from its stems. Loin de l'oeil produces dry and fragrant wines that are low in acidity. This grape variety was very popular in the 1870s but is now threatened with extinction. Harvested when over-ripe, this grape also produces sweet or very sweet wines.
2) Romorantin: a grape variety close to Château de Chambord
Perhaps you have already visited the famous Château de Chambord and perhaps you have already heard of a small neighbouring town called Romorantin. But did you know that there is a grape variety with the same name? Grown on a tiny terroir, this white grape variety dates back to the François I era, which commissioned Léonard de Vinci in 1579 for the plans of Château de Chambord, and requesting a vineyard to surround its walls. Gradually replaced by Sauvignon over the years, Romorantin plantations are now grown exclusively in Loir-et-Cher, under the Cour-Cheverny appellation. It is recognised by its medium-sized white berries and its heart-shaped vine leaves. Wines developed using Romorantin are generally fruity and dry white wines with white fruit and honey aromas.
3) Rosé du Var: not to be confused with Roussanne!
As you can imagine, there is nothing but white grapes in the family of forgotten
grape varieties. There are also red and pink grape varieties, such as rosé du var
for example. As its name suggests, this varietal native to the Var (PACA) is
recognized by its large pink berries and its fresh and acidic wines with often
expressive nose. "The ancients called it Roussanne du Var, but this term was
quickly abandoned because of confusion with Roussanne, with whom she has
nothing in common," says Thomas Merle, winemaker at Domaine Bouisse Matteri and
fervent defender of grape varieties forgotten who cultivate rosé du var, as
well as mourvaison, another forgotten variety (black grape variety).
Discover a wine made from rosé du var ...
4) Mollard: emblematic grape of the IGP Hautes-Alpes
Red grape variety whose name means "little mountain" or "small mountain",
the mollard is an integral part of the history of the vine in the IGP Hautes-Alpes.
But in the 80s, many winemakers decided to tear it to replace with international
grape varieties such as cabernet or syrah to attract a larger panel of consumers.
Plots of mollard then remain in the Hautes-Alpes, but for lack of renewal,
their health status is deteriorating and the grape variety is threatened with
extinction. However, a domain will never abandon it: the German Domain, considered
today as the pioneer domain of the mollard. In the 90s, the winemaker
Marc-French launches several experiments to save this mountain variety,
which offers wines with a spicy nose and roasted notes. In the early 2000s,
a vine mother is planted to revive the production of mollard. Today, the estate
owns the vine plot, the mother of this grape, do not come from all the new
plantations certified mollard.
