How are winegrowers adapting to the new climatic conditions?

Climate Change and Its Impact on French Vineyards

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The changes in climate conditions caused by global warming have been felt for several years. Far from being a hypothesis, this has become a real challenge for French vineyards today.

This year, for example (2021), we experienced not just extreme heat, but frequent and unstable episodes of frost.

Warmer temperatures, more frequent droughts, unexpected frosts, and erratic rainfall are all symptoms that have a direct impact on viticulture. With these phenomena repeating year after year, winemakers are adapting, anticipating, and rethinking their practices. Now more than ever, they need the direct support provided by short supply chains and direct-to-consumer sales.

Climate Changes Putting Vineyards to the Test

When we talk about "global warming," we often think only of rising temperatures. However, climate and weather are distinct. While the climate (average weather over a significant period) is warming, weather patterns are becoming more unstable. Air masses and the water cycle are significantly disrupted by global warming, leading to increased atmospheric depressions, for instance.

This was evident this past spring, as French vineyards were hit by frost due to an atmospheric depression caused by unusually warm air masses in the Arctic, which sent cold air down into Europe.

The impacts of climate change on vineyards fall into three main categories:

1. Higher Average Temperatures and Unusual Heat Peaks:

   • Harvests are taking place earlier, and grapes are ripening faster than optimal.
   • Grape flavors and sugar levels (and thus the final alcohol content in wine) are affected.
   • Grapes risk "burning" under intense sunlight, leading to wasted crops.
   • In extreme cases, the risk of wildfires is higher, as demonstrated recently in California’s vineyards.

2. Climate Change Alters Vineyard Conditions:

   • Droughts are more frequent and more intense.
   • Frost episodes can occur more often and with less predictability.
   • Flooding is more common, as seen in Bordeaux at the start of 2021.

3. Consumer Awareness and Concern:

   • With a growing awareness of climate issues, consumers are increasingly turning to organic, biodynamic, and other environmentally friendly agricultural practices.

How Winemakers Are Adapting to These Changes

Winemakers are adapting both individually and collectively by developing new techniques and exploring different grape varieties or regions.

A range of new techniques aims to reduce climate impacts on vineyards. Agroforestry, less intensive leaf thinning, and better ground cover management can help vineyards maintain cooler temperatures, create shade for the grapes, and improve water retention. These are just some examples of techniques being studied by winemakers.

Another option being explored is testing new grape varieties. Harvests are increasingly early as the climate accelerates grape ripening. This can be problematic, as it reduces the time for grapes to achieve the optimal sugar-to-acid balance. Many regions are experimenting with forgotten varieties or grapes from other areas to better suit the changing climate.

Finally, there is a notable increase in vineyards managed according to biodynamic and organic farming principles, reflecting consumer concerns.

Is French Viticulture Heading Toward a Transformation?

While it’s too soon to redraw the vineyard map, climate change is here to stay, and the transformation of French viticulture is well underway. For example, a major Champagne producer has already planted vines in England in anticipation of shifting climate conditions. Likewise, new vineyards are appearing in Brittany, while other regions face increasing challenges.

It is undeniable that the wine map of France will see changes in the coming years, as evidenced by the growing number of regions allowing new grape varieties in their AOCs to adapt to this new reality.

How far will this change go? It will depend on the next few years, on humanity’s ability to manage these shifts, and on the climate’s potential to stabilize once again.