Outstanding Red Wines

A great red usually pairs one grape with one specific vineyard. On Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune and in the hills around Sancerre, that grape is Pinot Noir; on the slopes above the Rhône south of Lyon, it is Syrah; in northern Corsica, it is Niellucciu. Each appellation sets this choice.

Volnay and Sancerre: One Grape, Two Vineyards

In Volnay, on Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, the appellation is reserved for red wine and built on Pinot Noir. Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are allowed only as vines interplanted in the rows, up to 15% of each plot, and plantings must reach at least 9,000 vines per hectare (about 3,640 per acre).

The appellation describes ruby-colored wines whose subtle acidity balances their tannic structure. Serve them with roast squab: its fine, rosy meat goes well with a red this refined.

Farther west, on the Loire, a red Sancerre is made from Pinot Noir alone. It is aged at least until March 1 of the year after harvest and released to consumers no earlier than March 15, and the same roast squab suits it well.

Côte-Rôtie: Syrah on Stair-Step Slopes

About 25 miles (40 km) south of Lyon, the Côte-Rôtie vineyard spans three villages on the right bank of the Rhône, around Ampuis. On these very steep hillsides, vines grow behind dry-stone walls called “cheys” or on narrow terraces known as “chaillées.”

The appellation makes only red wine, with at least 80% Syrah in the blend, and sets its yield at 40 hectoliters per hectare. When Viognier, a white grape, is included, its bunches are fermented together with the Syrah.

These wines are credited with a dark, almost black color and notes of black fruit and spice. Serve them with roast beef tenderloin, cooked rare.

Patrimonio, a Red from Northern Corsica’s Limestone Hills

In northern Corsica, the Patrimonio appellation builds its reds on Niellucciu, which the official rules spell Nielluccio: the grape must account for at least 90% of the vines a grower plants for red wine. Grenache, Sciaccarello and Vermentino, a white grape, play only a secondary part.

According to the appellation, the limestone is what makes these reds rich and deeply colored. They go well with an aged cheese, such as a sheep’s milk cheese.

Whatever the region, serve these reds just below room temperature.

“Clos” on the Label, Resting the Bottles: Your Questions

What does the word “clos” guarantee on a red wine label?

On a red wine label, the word “clos” is reserved for protected designation of origin wines from an estate that has vineyards and a winery. Like “château,” it has been regulated in France since 1921, as the French Ministry of Agriculture restated in 2012.

How long should an older red rest after delivery?

Let an older red rest for a few days after delivery, a week if you can, before opening it. Shipping jostles the bottle, and this quiet spell is a simple precaution, all the more useful the older the wine. If you are planning a dinner, order ahead.

Where can you buy outstanding red wines direct from the winemaker?

You can buy outstanding red wines direct from the producer on Avenue des Vins. Every wine’s page shows its appellation and region.

See also: Wines for gifts - Award-winning wines - Large Formats